Helene of Timmons, Ont. wants to know:
Q: Pot Belly Pigs a Problem with Other Pets?
" I am considering getting a pot belly pig as a pet, they are so cool and I have lots of room. But I already own three cats and a dog ( German Shepherd) who all get along. How do pot belly pigs typically get along with other pets? "
A: Hi Helene,
Getting a potbelly pig is a very exciting and stressful event. It is imperative that you are first prepared for the kind of care and training they will require before making a decision. Never take a piglet home before 8 weeks of age, and make sure you are adopting your pet from a reputable breeder (if you decide to rescue a pig, make sure you are familiar with any undesirable behaviours they may have and organize to work with a pet behaviour specialist). Piglets take time to adjust to new people, at first they don't like bring picked up or manhandled. Pigs are extremely intelligent animals, far more complex than dogs, and therefore more difficult to train. They are stubborn, clever curious, and highly motivated to get their own way. Pig-proofing is essential. This process is similar to toddler-proofing (remove edible objects, dangerous items, lock cupboards, fridge and keep the garbage out of reach). These are definitely not pets for a novice trainer or first time pet owner. Management is essential.
Pigs are very social creatures and enjoy the company of people and other animals. The major problem that occurs between pigs and dogs is a lack of effective communication. Many behaviours that pigs exhibit are misinterpreted by dogs. It is up to you (the owner) to teach and translate so that your animals understand what is being asked ("go away" or "come play"). Reward your dog and pig for the proper responses. Dogs who have a strong prey drive should never be left unattended with a pig, as serious injury can occur. Dogs are natural predators, and pigs are natural prey ( I have experienced this first-hand).
Introductions should happen slowly when both animals are calm. Separate the animals if they become too excited, this is when they stop thinking and begin reacting impulsively. Cats and pigs generally get along well. They will often sleep together keeping each other warm.
I hope this answers some of your questions, and has given you some new things to think about. Do lots of research before making your choice. They don't stay small forever and often have limited mobility as adults. They are a labour of love, but too many end up neglected and in shelters. For more advice feel free to contact me through my website. www.petbehaviour.net
Monday, November 23, 2009
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Fearful Shituz
Q: Erma MacDonald
Question: My shitzu is afraid of dogs and people. She charges at people trying to bite their legs. How do I make her more friendly? She does have some friends both dogs and people but it took a long time to get there and they are family.
A: Hi Erma,
Be assured, that this is a very typical issues seen with small dogs (lap dogs). In most cases, the issues are not resolved easily because of the owner's tendency to nurture their dog's insecurity (or uncertainty) in an effort to provide comfort. When dogs become stressed, nervous or scared their response are limited to two main functions..fight or flight. Depending on the dog's age, breed, sex, and past experiences they will usually exhibit one more often than the other. Your dog faces the fear head-on and creates confrontation.
In order to change your dog's response in these circumstances you must first exhibit the energy that you want the situation to represent. If you want your dog to have a relaxed and enjoyable experience, you must be relaxed, calm and happy. Becoming stressed, angry or nervous will only confirm your dog's fear.
Once in the right state of mind, the next step is to go slowly with new people. Don't force her to make friends, give her space and time in a social setting to become comfortable. Provide lots of food rewards in unsettling environments, and celebrate small successes (glancing at a stranger and then looking back to you, walking past another dog without an overreaction, etc.). Ask people to ignore her at first, no eye contact or reaching in to her space. When she is ready, let her go to the person. You can put food rewards on the floor by the persons feet to encourage her to move closer.
If she does begin to react inappropriately, focus on redirecting her (pulling to the side of the neck with the leash in the opposite direct then she is pulling), and reward her for coming away from the person or animal she was reacting to. Never coddle her when she is afraid by picking her up. Wait until she is no longer reacting, then the cuddle will be a reward for calming down.
Remain cool, calm and collective.... your dog will follow.
Question: My shitzu is afraid of dogs and people. She charges at people trying to bite their legs. How do I make her more friendly? She does have some friends both dogs and people but it took a long time to get there and they are family.
A: Hi Erma,
Be assured, that this is a very typical issues seen with small dogs (lap dogs). In most cases, the issues are not resolved easily because of the owner's tendency to nurture their dog's insecurity (or uncertainty) in an effort to provide comfort. When dogs become stressed, nervous or scared their response are limited to two main functions..fight or flight. Depending on the dog's age, breed, sex, and past experiences they will usually exhibit one more often than the other. Your dog faces the fear head-on and creates confrontation.
In order to change your dog's response in these circumstances you must first exhibit the energy that you want the situation to represent. If you want your dog to have a relaxed and enjoyable experience, you must be relaxed, calm and happy. Becoming stressed, angry or nervous will only confirm your dog's fear.
Once in the right state of mind, the next step is to go slowly with new people. Don't force her to make friends, give her space and time in a social setting to become comfortable. Provide lots of food rewards in unsettling environments, and celebrate small successes (glancing at a stranger and then looking back to you, walking past another dog without an overreaction, etc.). Ask people to ignore her at first, no eye contact or reaching in to her space. When she is ready, let her go to the person. You can put food rewards on the floor by the persons feet to encourage her to move closer.
If she does begin to react inappropriately, focus on redirecting her (pulling to the side of the neck with the leash in the opposite direct then she is pulling), and reward her for coming away from the person or animal she was reacting to. Never coddle her when she is afraid by picking her up. Wait until she is no longer reacting, then the cuddle will be a reward for calming down.
Remain cool, calm and collective.... your dog will follow.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
EMC Record News Column: Jumping Up, Got You Down?
Check out this Sept. 3, 2009 article at the above link.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Help My Hound
Q: Dear Jessica,
I am writing this note in response to your ad in the EMC last week.
I have a 1 year one Beagle/Walker Hound mix. Who we purchased from a family ( not a breeder ) at 12 weeks old. His mother was a pure Walker Hound and very friendly. His father was the Beagle which I have no background on.
He is a very good hunter...even at a very young age and has no issues with people at all.
The problem I am having is introducing him to new dogs. to me he seems scared of them and nips at first, if he likes them he starts to play immediately; if not, he keeps growling and attacking them. He seems to respect dogs that will put him down if he gets out of line, but attacks dogs that won't fight back (ie: puppies). I don't even try introducing him to puppies or little dogs...it never works out.
To correct this problem, I muzzle him to introduce him to new dogs; and then take it off if they start to play. We have been attending a dog park since he was 3 months old so he would be well socialized; I guess that didn't work! If we are back in the bush and he meets a (large) dog (off leash) there are no issues. If he doesn't like him, he just goes off hunting.
Can you help.
A: The answer to this question will appear in my next article in the EMC Record News
I am writing this note in response to your ad in the EMC last week.
I have a 1 year one Beagle/Walker Hound mix. Who we purchased from a family ( not a breeder ) at 12 weeks old. His mother was a pure Walker Hound and very friendly. His father was the Beagle which I have no background on.
He is a very good hunter...even at a very young age and has no issues with people at all.
The problem I am having is introducing him to new dogs. to me he seems scared of them and nips at first, if he likes them he starts to play immediately; if not, he keeps growling and attacking them. He seems to respect dogs that will put him down if he gets out of line, but attacks dogs that won't fight back (ie: puppies). I don't even try introducing him to puppies or little dogs...it never works out.
To correct this problem, I muzzle him to introduce him to new dogs; and then take it off if they start to play. We have been attending a dog park since he was 3 months old so he would be well socialized; I guess that didn't work! If we are back in the bush and he meets a (large) dog (off leash) there are no issues. If he doesn't like him, he just goes off hunting.
Can you help.
A: The answer to this question will appear in my next article in the EMC Record News
Our Spoiled Rotten Bichon Frise
Dear Jessica,
This letter is in response to your article in The Record News EMC regarding pet behaviour.
We have a wonderful, loving, friendly 6 year old Bichon Frise. We brought her home after
we were both retired and she had our undivided attention. Yes we spoiled her shamefully.
However, we are now inclined to leave her alone more than in previous days and she has
become our "little guilt trip". She exhibits the symptoms of "anxiety separation"
(yes a human trait, however it seems to apply to our little pet also).
I have practised turning my back on her, ignoring her when we first come home, making her
sit and be still before greeting her. This has worked somewhat, however she will then
follow me around the house for hours after being left alone and won't let me out of her sight.
I would appreciate any advice you can give us that will help make her feel more secure and
allow us to leave her alone and not feel guilty doing so.
Thank you.
A: The answer to this question will appear in my next article in the EMC Record News
This letter is in response to your article in The Record News EMC regarding pet behaviour.
We have a wonderful, loving, friendly 6 year old Bichon Frise. We brought her home after
we were both retired and she had our undivided attention. Yes we spoiled her shamefully.
However, we are now inclined to leave her alone more than in previous days and she has
become our "little guilt trip". She exhibits the symptoms of "anxiety separation"
(yes a human trait, however it seems to apply to our little pet also).
I have practised turning my back on her, ignoring her when we first come home, making her
sit and be still before greeting her. This has worked somewhat, however she will then
follow me around the house for hours after being left alone and won't let me out of her sight.
I would appreciate any advice you can give us that will help make her feel more secure and
allow us to leave her alone and not feel guilty doing so.
Thank you.
A: The answer to this question will appear in my next article in the EMC Record News
Thursday, March 5, 2009
14 month old Puggle- Chews Everything
Q: Our dog - a 14 month old puggle - chews EVERYTHING (shoes, furniture, garbage, toilet paper, me)! We are at our wit's end, and my husband is seriously threatening to get rid of the dog if we can't stop this behaviour. Is there any way to train a dog not to chew things other than his toys? We learned the "Leave it" command in puppy kindergarten but he chooses when and if to obey it. I'd appreciate any suggestions you could give us.
Thanks.
A: Hi Adrienne,
You are not alone! It is likely that your dog is going through a second teething phase so be patient. Your dog is a teenager now, not a puppy. I tell you this so that you have a better understanding of how she needs to be dealt with. This is a typical time for owners to loosen up on rules and restriction with the thought the puppyhood is over and the dog can be trusted. In fact during this period of time restriction must be heavily reinforced and consistent. Any parent of a teenage will confirm this.
As far as the persistent chewing is concerned, it is likely that you have given her too much unearned freedom for her to be getting in to so much trouble. You have to use a combination of training and management in order to 'nip this behaviour in the butt'. That means supervision and a controlled environment. Make sure never to engage in a game of keep away with your dog (chasing after her for the object), they love it and it only makes the object they have even more valuable to them. Instead, pick up one of her toys and give it a few squeaks, pay lots of attention to it (without paying any attention to her). She will likely realize that what you have is better and leave the other object behind. Continue to interrupt the chewing and redirect her to the appropriate object, once she moves away from the inappropriate object, reward her for doing so with some freeze dried liver.
If you need further advice on this topic please feel free to contact me or set up a telephone consultation. Good luck and keep me posted.
Thanks.
A: Hi Adrienne,
You are not alone! It is likely that your dog is going through a second teething phase so be patient. Your dog is a teenager now, not a puppy. I tell you this so that you have a better understanding of how she needs to be dealt with. This is a typical time for owners to loosen up on rules and restriction with the thought the puppyhood is over and the dog can be trusted. In fact during this period of time restriction must be heavily reinforced and consistent. Any parent of a teenage will confirm this.
As far as the persistent chewing is concerned, it is likely that you have given her too much unearned freedom for her to be getting in to so much trouble. You have to use a combination of training and management in order to 'nip this behaviour in the butt'. That means supervision and a controlled environment. Make sure never to engage in a game of keep away with your dog (chasing after her for the object), they love it and it only makes the object they have even more valuable to them. Instead, pick up one of her toys and give it a few squeaks, pay lots of attention to it (without paying any attention to her). She will likely realize that what you have is better and leave the other object behind. Continue to interrupt the chewing and redirect her to the appropriate object, once she moves away from the inappropriate object, reward her for doing so with some freeze dried liver.
If you need further advice on this topic please feel free to contact me or set up a telephone consultation. Good luck and keep me posted.
Friday, February 27, 2009
1 1/2 yr old, Viszla- Pulling on Leash
Q: I adopted my 1-1/2 yr old Viszla from a rescue 5 months ago, and have worked on socializing her. She exercises regularly and vigorously with a pack. But when I exercise her alone she strains to meet every dog and cat and goes berserk (vicious-sounding yet with a happy wagging tail) if I don't allow it. I have her on a pinch collar and a short leash to keep her focused and under control. Any suggestions on how to stop this behaviour?
A: Hi Sue,
I would suggest that you help to teach your overly-friendly pooch that in order to access things she likes, she must first demonstrate self-control. Use access to the other dogs as a reward for calm, composed behaviour. You may need to start training at a further distance (far enough away that she doesn't react) and increase distance slowly. If she becomes overexcited stop moving towards the other animal or for extra effect begin to move away. You needn't speak to her while training, your body movement will be enough. If you do speak, use a clam soft tone. The faster she moves the slower you move (physical movement, voice tone, etc.). It would also be a good idea to attend a basic training class or a class that teaches leash handling skills. Make sure that the school you attend uses reward-based teaching methods. Keep up the good work and congrats on the new member to the family. For more information on this topic or others contact me via email to schedule a telephone consultation. jessica.urika@gmail.com
A: Hi Sue,
I would suggest that you help to teach your overly-friendly pooch that in order to access things she likes, she must first demonstrate self-control. Use access to the other dogs as a reward for calm, composed behaviour. You may need to start training at a further distance (far enough away that she doesn't react) and increase distance slowly. If she becomes overexcited stop moving towards the other animal or for extra effect begin to move away. You needn't speak to her while training, your body movement will be enough. If you do speak, use a clam soft tone. The faster she moves the slower you move (physical movement, voice tone, etc.). It would also be a good idea to attend a basic training class or a class that teaches leash handling skills. Make sure that the school you attend uses reward-based teaching methods. Keep up the good work and congrats on the new member to the family. For more information on this topic or others contact me via email to schedule a telephone consultation. jessica.urika@gmail.com
Reactive to bikes- Cocker Spaniel
Q: I have a cocker spaniel that is terrified of bikes. He will run away if he is off leash and sees a bike and then he becomes paranoid and nervous for the rest of the walk with his tail down and constantly looking over his shoulder. How do I help him with his nervous behaviour?
A: Hi Dori,
You need to start small, and set her up for success. First visually expose your cocker to a bike that is not moving, at a distance she can handle (she doesn't react to). Reward her for appropriate behaviour. You then slowly increase distance (example: 10 feet, 8 feet, 6 feet etc.) and intensity (example: spin the wheel, move the handlebars, with a rider etc.). This process is called Systematic Desensitization and Counter Conditioning. Always pair the bike with something pleasant such as food (freeze dried liver is a good choice). If she begins to react inappropriately, you have moved too quickly, go back a step. As for your walks, where the environment is uncontrolled, you should keep you dog leashed. When your dog begins to react, DISTRACT, REDIRECT, & REWARD RECOVERY.For more information on this topic or others contact me via email to schedule a telephone consultation. jessica.urika@gmail.com
A: Hi Dori,
You need to start small, and set her up for success. First visually expose your cocker to a bike that is not moving, at a distance she can handle (she doesn't react to). Reward her for appropriate behaviour. You then slowly increase distance (example: 10 feet, 8 feet, 6 feet etc.) and intensity (example: spin the wheel, move the handlebars, with a rider etc.). This process is called Systematic Desensitization and Counter Conditioning. Always pair the bike with something pleasant such as food (freeze dried liver is a good choice). If she begins to react inappropriately, you have moved too quickly, go back a step. As for your walks, where the environment is uncontrolled, you should keep you dog leashed. When your dog begins to react, DISTRACT, REDIRECT, & REWARD RECOVERY.For more information on this topic or others contact me via email to schedule a telephone consultation. jessica.urika@gmail.com
Aggression on Leash
Q: Why do dogs on a leash seem to be more nervous or aggressive when meeting other dogs in public than dogs not on a leash?
A: This is a very clever observation. You are right, you can intensify a dogs reaction up to 40% higher when on leash then when off leash. The reaction is exaggerated because the dog is confined to the boundary on there leash length, therefore their ability to exercise their fight or flight response is inhibited, and there options are limited. Despite their motive, to increase or decrease the distance between them and other dog, they must exhibit alternate behaviours in order to achieve their desired results. For more information on this topic or others contact me via email to schedule a telephone consultation.
A: This is a very clever observation. You are right, you can intensify a dogs reaction up to 40% higher when on leash then when off leash. The reaction is exaggerated because the dog is confined to the boundary on there leash length, therefore their ability to exercise their fight or flight response is inhibited, and there options are limited. Despite their motive, to increase or decrease the distance between them and other dog, they must exhibit alternate behaviours in order to achieve their desired results. For more information on this topic or others contact me via email to schedule a telephone consultation.
5 month, Male, ShiPoo: Jumping-Up
Q: I have a 5 month old male ShiPoo. He behaves basically well, is house trained, however jumps up on people when they come to the door or we meet them on the street. How do I break this habit?
A: Hi Susan,
Sorry about the delay in getting back to you. This is a typical behaviour issue that arises from our (the human's) behaviour. Dog are very visually specific, and learn from past experience. It is very common for strangers and owners alike to acknowledge this pesky behaviour unintentionally, therefore reinforcing it. I assume that every time or perhaps every so often, when your beautiful puppy jumps up to greet you or a stranger, he is immediately encountered with eye contact at the very least. Most often he will get a rub on the head, and a "Hey there is little guy". Eventually we as owner get annoyed and start scolding our dogs, first we give them eye contact, then "Get off!". The pattern is still the same. You have still said "Hey, I noticed you, hello". The only way to break this habit of yours and your dogs is to go cold turkey!
Jumping-up= No more interaction at all, that means no talking, no looking, and no touching.
Use your body to block you dog, lean in, or turn away. For dogs who are extremely persistent: have him drag a leash around, and ground the leash with your foot when approach by people. Wait until he offers you a calm body posture (sit, stand or lie down) then say "Say hello" calmly. If the jumping begins again, start over. Leave your emotions out of it. Don't over talk to him. Basic training classes at the right school will help as well.
Keep in your mind: Your dog will not access things he likes until he can demonstrate that he is calm or at least controlled.
Hope this helps, for more information please email me or contact me by phone to set up a consultation. Congratulations on your new family member, and good luck!
Cheers.
Jessica O'Neill
A: Hi Susan,
Sorry about the delay in getting back to you. This is a typical behaviour issue that arises from our (the human's) behaviour. Dog are very visually specific, and learn from past experience. It is very common for strangers and owners alike to acknowledge this pesky behaviour unintentionally, therefore reinforcing it. I assume that every time or perhaps every so often, when your beautiful puppy jumps up to greet you or a stranger, he is immediately encountered with eye contact at the very least. Most often he will get a rub on the head, and a "Hey there is little guy". Eventually we as owner get annoyed and start scolding our dogs, first we give them eye contact, then "Get off!". The pattern is still the same. You have still said "Hey, I noticed you, hello". The only way to break this habit of yours and your dogs is to go cold turkey!
Jumping-up= No more interaction at all, that means no talking, no looking, and no touching.
Use your body to block you dog, lean in, or turn away. For dogs who are extremely persistent: have him drag a leash around, and ground the leash with your foot when approach by people. Wait until he offers you a calm body posture (sit, stand or lie down) then say "Say hello" calmly. If the jumping begins again, start over. Leave your emotions out of it. Don't over talk to him. Basic training classes at the right school will help as well.
Keep in your mind: Your dog will not access things he likes until he can demonstrate that he is calm or at least controlled.
Hope this helps, for more information please email me or contact me by phone to set up a consultation. Congratulations on your new family member, and good luck!
Cheers.
Jessica O'Neill
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