Owner: Have a 6 month cross beagle-basset hound.
Q:1. Is it better to take puppy to outside training as opposed to at home training.?
A: The most important thing to remember is to generalize behaviour and training. This means working in a variety of areas, not just one (outside, on the street, in the park, in the house, on the front lawn, around kids, near other dogs, quiet environments, noisy environment, etc.)
Q:2.he really pulls on collar leash as opposed to a harness. read where beagle larynx could be subject to injury if collar pulled to hard.
A: When working with a flat collar (normal collar), which is what I would recommend for training, you must remember that when she pulls you must make sure you are at a 90 degree angle so the pressure goes to the side of the neck. Never give 'pop' corrections, just simply move the opposite direction then she is pulling, preferable walking backwards so that you can reward the moment she stops pulling and gives you eye contact.
Q:3. Training treats- buy commercial treats or can I do liver and freeze it?
A: Many commercial treats are unhealthy for your dog. I would recommend freeze dried liver. This can be purchased at most pet stores. The brand i generally use is call Benny Bullies. Liver is very rich, so each reward need only be half the size of your baby finger nail.
Q:4. are there closed in dog parks for socialization around Perth, Smiths Falls area.
A: There is a off-leash dog park in Carleton Place, and talk of one developing in Perth. Be cautious about off-leash parks because many owners are unfamiliar with proper dog-dog behaviour and social etiquette. Dogs labeled as "friendly" are often over stimulated and socially inappropriate.
Q:5.is there a correct order of training- sit, stay, then leash walking etc.?
A: There is no specific order that is proven to be better. Make sure that you don't overwhelm the dog, and always teach a visual cue before adding a verbal one for each behaviour.
Owner Comment: I enjoy your articles in EMC.
Jessica: Thanks very much, I enjoy the feedback. Good Luck!
Friday, March 5, 2010
Monday, November 23, 2009
Pot Belly Pigs a Problem with Other Pets?
Helene of Timmons, Ont. wants to know:
Q: Pot Belly Pigs a Problem with Other Pets?
" I am considering getting a pot belly pig as a pet, they are so cool and I have lots of room. But I already own three cats and a dog ( German Shepherd) who all get along. How do pot belly pigs typically get along with other pets? "
A: Hi Helene,
Getting a potbelly pig is a very exciting and stressful event. It is imperative that you are first prepared for the kind of care and training they will require before making a decision. Never take a piglet home before 8 weeks of age, and make sure you are adopting your pet from a reputable breeder (if you decide to rescue a pig, make sure you are familiar with any undesirable behaviours they may have and organize to work with a pet behaviour specialist). Piglets take time to adjust to new people, at first they don't like bring picked up or manhandled. Pigs are extremely intelligent animals, far more complex than dogs, and therefore more difficult to train. They are stubborn, clever curious, and highly motivated to get their own way. Pig-proofing is essential. This process is similar to toddler-proofing (remove edible objects, dangerous items, lock cupboards, fridge and keep the garbage out of reach). These are definitely not pets for a novice trainer or first time pet owner. Management is essential.
Pigs are very social creatures and enjoy the company of people and other animals. The major problem that occurs between pigs and dogs is a lack of effective communication. Many behaviours that pigs exhibit are misinterpreted by dogs. It is up to you (the owner) to teach and translate so that your animals understand what is being asked ("go away" or "come play"). Reward your dog and pig for the proper responses. Dogs who have a strong prey drive should never be left unattended with a pig, as serious injury can occur. Dogs are natural predators, and pigs are natural prey ( I have experienced this first-hand).
Introductions should happen slowly when both animals are calm. Separate the animals if they become too excited, this is when they stop thinking and begin reacting impulsively. Cats and pigs generally get along well. They will often sleep together keeping each other warm.
I hope this answers some of your questions, and has given you some new things to think about. Do lots of research before making your choice. They don't stay small forever and often have limited mobility as adults. They are a labour of love, but too many end up neglected and in shelters. For more advice feel free to contact me through my website. www.petbehaviour.net
Q: Pot Belly Pigs a Problem with Other Pets?
" I am considering getting a pot belly pig as a pet, they are so cool and I have lots of room. But I already own three cats and a dog ( German Shepherd) who all get along. How do pot belly pigs typically get along with other pets? "
A: Hi Helene,
Getting a potbelly pig is a very exciting and stressful event. It is imperative that you are first prepared for the kind of care and training they will require before making a decision. Never take a piglet home before 8 weeks of age, and make sure you are adopting your pet from a reputable breeder (if you decide to rescue a pig, make sure you are familiar with any undesirable behaviours they may have and organize to work with a pet behaviour specialist). Piglets take time to adjust to new people, at first they don't like bring picked up or manhandled. Pigs are extremely intelligent animals, far more complex than dogs, and therefore more difficult to train. They are stubborn, clever curious, and highly motivated to get their own way. Pig-proofing is essential. This process is similar to toddler-proofing (remove edible objects, dangerous items, lock cupboards, fridge and keep the garbage out of reach). These are definitely not pets for a novice trainer or first time pet owner. Management is essential.
Pigs are very social creatures and enjoy the company of people and other animals. The major problem that occurs between pigs and dogs is a lack of effective communication. Many behaviours that pigs exhibit are misinterpreted by dogs. It is up to you (the owner) to teach and translate so that your animals understand what is being asked ("go away" or "come play"). Reward your dog and pig for the proper responses. Dogs who have a strong prey drive should never be left unattended with a pig, as serious injury can occur. Dogs are natural predators, and pigs are natural prey ( I have experienced this first-hand).
Introductions should happen slowly when both animals are calm. Separate the animals if they become too excited, this is when they stop thinking and begin reacting impulsively. Cats and pigs generally get along well. They will often sleep together keeping each other warm.
I hope this answers some of your questions, and has given you some new things to think about. Do lots of research before making your choice. They don't stay small forever and often have limited mobility as adults. They are a labour of love, but too many end up neglected and in shelters. For more advice feel free to contact me through my website. www.petbehaviour.net
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Fearful Shituz
Q: Erma MacDonald
Question: My shitzu is afraid of dogs and people. She charges at people trying to bite their legs. How do I make her more friendly? She does have some friends both dogs and people but it took a long time to get there and they are family.
A: Hi Erma,
Be assured, that this is a very typical issues seen with small dogs (lap dogs). In most cases, the issues are not resolved easily because of the owner's tendency to nurture their dog's insecurity (or uncertainty) in an effort to provide comfort. When dogs become stressed, nervous or scared their response are limited to two main functions..fight or flight. Depending on the dog's age, breed, sex, and past experiences they will usually exhibit one more often than the other. Your dog faces the fear head-on and creates confrontation.
In order to change your dog's response in these circumstances you must first exhibit the energy that you want the situation to represent. If you want your dog to have a relaxed and enjoyable experience, you must be relaxed, calm and happy. Becoming stressed, angry or nervous will only confirm your dog's fear.
Once in the right state of mind, the next step is to go slowly with new people. Don't force her to make friends, give her space and time in a social setting to become comfortable. Provide lots of food rewards in unsettling environments, and celebrate small successes (glancing at a stranger and then looking back to you, walking past another dog without an overreaction, etc.). Ask people to ignore her at first, no eye contact or reaching in to her space. When she is ready, let her go to the person. You can put food rewards on the floor by the persons feet to encourage her to move closer.
If she does begin to react inappropriately, focus on redirecting her (pulling to the side of the neck with the leash in the opposite direct then she is pulling), and reward her for coming away from the person or animal she was reacting to. Never coddle her when she is afraid by picking her up. Wait until she is no longer reacting, then the cuddle will be a reward for calming down.
Remain cool, calm and collective.... your dog will follow.
Question: My shitzu is afraid of dogs and people. She charges at people trying to bite their legs. How do I make her more friendly? She does have some friends both dogs and people but it took a long time to get there and they are family.
A: Hi Erma,
Be assured, that this is a very typical issues seen with small dogs (lap dogs). In most cases, the issues are not resolved easily because of the owner's tendency to nurture their dog's insecurity (or uncertainty) in an effort to provide comfort. When dogs become stressed, nervous or scared their response are limited to two main functions..fight or flight. Depending on the dog's age, breed, sex, and past experiences they will usually exhibit one more often than the other. Your dog faces the fear head-on and creates confrontation.
In order to change your dog's response in these circumstances you must first exhibit the energy that you want the situation to represent. If you want your dog to have a relaxed and enjoyable experience, you must be relaxed, calm and happy. Becoming stressed, angry or nervous will only confirm your dog's fear.
Once in the right state of mind, the next step is to go slowly with new people. Don't force her to make friends, give her space and time in a social setting to become comfortable. Provide lots of food rewards in unsettling environments, and celebrate small successes (glancing at a stranger and then looking back to you, walking past another dog without an overreaction, etc.). Ask people to ignore her at first, no eye contact or reaching in to her space. When she is ready, let her go to the person. You can put food rewards on the floor by the persons feet to encourage her to move closer.
If she does begin to react inappropriately, focus on redirecting her (pulling to the side of the neck with the leash in the opposite direct then she is pulling), and reward her for coming away from the person or animal she was reacting to. Never coddle her when she is afraid by picking her up. Wait until she is no longer reacting, then the cuddle will be a reward for calming down.
Remain cool, calm and collective.... your dog will follow.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
EMC Record News Column: Jumping Up, Got You Down?
Check out this Sept. 3, 2009 article at the above link.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
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